Up until a few years ago most of the bikes that we could see on the road had rim brakes, then in recent times things have changed. Both in shops and online it is difficult to find a bike that does not have disc brakes. V brakes and caliper rim brakes are in fact today associated with cheap city bikes.

In cycling we can probably say that technology has always come from mtb which in turn has always incorporated the innovations introduced on suspensions and braking systems from motocross.

Road cycling, on the other hand, has always had a very keen eye for weight balance and aerodynamics more than anything else.

Speaking of performance, if a disc brake system weighs down the bike enough and complicates maintenance, on the other hand it exponentially improves its braking qualities both on dry and especially wet surfaces. So much so that even in the world of professional cycling all the teams now adopt bikes with hydraulic disc brakes.

As for lubrication, the 3 main component brands such as Shimano Campagnolo and Sram use different solutions. If Shimano and Campagnolo can be interchanged with each other with calipers, pads and discs as they use a mineral oil, Sram instead makes a bit of a separate discussion using DOT oil, a much more aggressive oil that requires the use of metal pads. and bleeding every 6 months, as DOT oil is hygroscopic and tends to absorb moisture.

As for the maintenance of a hydraulic brake system, the only thing we should worry about is the life of the brake pads and precisely the amount of lubricating oil left. Being able to define the duration of the pads is rather difficult, in fact it depends on many aspects such as the route we will face, the type of pad compound mounted, the weight of the cyclist, the size of the discs and the atmospheric conditions during our rides. Let's say that on average a pair of rear pads lasts about 2000 km.

For oil purging, on the other hand, we say that on average it should be done once a year. it is an operation not within everyone's reach, both for the skills required and for the necessary equipment. As we said before, although the tools to be used and the liquid may vary, the procedure is roughly the same for all three main reference brands. A good practice is also to use alcohol or solvent to remove any sort of geese and dirt on the pads.

Speaking of wear, as for the old bikes with rim brakes, we must take into account the need to replace the pads but also the wheel itself. In fact, the braking surface of our rims, whether made of aluminum or carbon, is subject to wear and tear over time and unlike the wheels for disc systems, these do not have an infinite life.

In both disc or rim brake systems, the lengthening of the run of the brake lever is usually a clear symptom of component wear and intervention required.

In bikes with both hydraulic and mechanical disc brakes, the noise caused by the disc rubbing on the pad can sometimes be traumatic and frustrating. This can happen during rainy days where it is easier for dirt to accumulate between the pads or every time remove the wheels. by doing so we could inadvertently press on the brake lever causing a misalignment of the pads. It is a good practice every time we travel with a disassembled bike to insert shims between the brake calipers in order to limit any movement inside. In case we are forced to re-center the calipers, a good tip to make the job easier is to use business cards as shims on each side to find the right alignment before tightening the caliper bolts.